Tooling Mallet vs Maul for Leathercraft Floral Tooling
One of the most common questions I get from leatherworkers getting into floral carving is:
“Should I use a tooling mallet or a tooling maul?”
If you spend much time watching tooling videos or attending leather shows, you’ll notice that a lot of floral carvers today use mauls. But that does not necessarily mean a mallet is wrong. Both tools work well, and both have been used for years by very skilled craftsmen.
A lot of this really comes down to personal preference, tooling style, and ergonomics.
In this video, I wanted to break down some of the practical differences between mallets and mauls from a real shop perspective and explain why certain styles may work better depending on the type of tooling you are doing.
When it comes to leather edge slicking, most folks focus on the leather, the sanding, or the edge solution they’re using—but not many think about the canvas itself.
In this video, I show a simple tip for prepping a new piece of canvas so it works better right from the start.
When it comes to leather floral carving, your swivel knife is the heart of the operation. It’s the tool that defines the flow, depth, and feel of your work. Not matter the leather floral carving session you are doing, the swivel knife is the first and last tool that we use to create the pattern.
In this video, “My Everyday Swivel Knives for Leather Floral Carving,” I walk through the knives I keep on my bench every single day—what I like about each one and how I use them for different styles of carving.
If you’ve been making leather belts, you may have been asked to make a Ranger Style Belt. In this video, How to Make a Leather Ranger Belt, I walk through the full process—from cutting the leather and preparing the edges to stitching, finishing, and adding hardware.
We also cover the “measuring” for a ranger belt. This is a little different than how we do it for a standard belt. Since there is not “fold” for the buckle this changes the sizing… there are also exterior billets that we use and those have to be balanced when the person is wearing the belt.
If you’re looking for a solid leather project that’s as useful as it is good-looking, a Leather Cowboy Boot Bag is a great one to tackle. In this video, Make a Leather Cowboy Boot Bag, I walk through the full build step by step—from cutting and layout to assembly and finishing.
A boot bag isn’t just a cool piece to make; it’s a practical one. Whether you’re hauling your boots to a show, rodeo, or just keeping them clean in storage, this project gives you something durable and unique that’ll last for years.
One of the questions I get asked most in the shop is: “What thread size should I use? How long should my stitches be?” And honestly, I think we sometimes overcomplicate thread size and stitch length in leathercraft.
In my video, Are We Overthinking Thread and Stitch Size?, I break down my approach to choosing thread size and stitch length, and why a lot of the “rules” out there aren’t set in stone.
If you’ve been working with leather for a little while, you know that skiving leather is one of those steps that makes a big difference. Thinning down your leather in the right places helps with folds, seams, and overall finish. But here’s the thing… there’s no single “right” way to skive leather.
The skiving tool you choose depends on what you’re making, the type of leather you’re using, and what feels good in your hand.
When it comes to leatherwork, there are a few pieces of hardware that I just couldn’t live without. Rivets and snaps might seem like small details, but they can make or break a project… literally. They add strength where you need it, hold things together under stress, and give your leather goods a finished, professional look.
In this video, LeatherCraft Rivets and Snaps I Use Everyday, I walk through the different types of fasteners I keep in stock in the shop and why they’ve earned a permanent spot on my bench.
My Everyday Rivets
Double Cap Speed Rivets – These are my go to light duty rivets to fasten two pieces together easily while still looking nice on both sides of the project. With lots of finishes available for these, you can match these to the different types of hardware you might use.
Copper Rivets and Burrs – When you need something that will never give out, copper rivets are the way to go. These are my choice for more heavy-duty gear like saddles, tack, bags, etc. They are also available in brass for that classy look that matches polished brass hardware.
The snaps that I Use
Line 20 Snaps – These are a smaller version of the Line 24 snaps and work great for journals, small pouches, and other small projects where the closure needs to be a bit smaller but still secure.
Line 24 Snaps – These are a step up from the line 20 snaps in size and strength. I use these on many projects including bags, larger journals, hoof pick holders on saddles, and more.
Segma Snaps – These are a great belt snap. Small and secure, they work great and look great for belts and come in many different finishes.
A Few Quick Tips
Always match your rivet or snap post length to the thickness of your leather project. Too short and it won’t hold, too long and it will sit loose or bend over.
Invest in the right setters and anvils for the particular fastener you are using. Good tools make a difference in this case.
Test hardware on a scrap piece first before setting on your project.
Final Thoughts
These fasteners are nothing fancy, but they are reliable. I’ve used them for years and they have worked well for me in my work. If you are new to leathercraft, I would suggest starting with double cap rivets for smaller projects and using copper rivets for bigger projects. Learning how to use fasteners properly and how to set them is crucial for your leather crafting journey. Try different ones and see how they work for your work.
Here is a full video that we posted on our YouTube channel that explains in depth all of these fasteners. Check it out and put some of these to work at your bench.
The overwhelming selection and variety of leather craft tools available on the market can be hard to navigate. This is especially true for people that are new to the trade. We can all spend a lot of money buying tools that we might not find a use for often enough to justify the expense.
We get questions asking for guidance on getting a good core set of leather craft tools that will allow someone new to the craft the ability to complete projects effectively. When I started leather craft many years ago, there were many quality publications available that talked about tools and supplies for leather work. There were also “leather craft kits” on the market that came with a collection of leather craft tools to get a new craftsman started. These kits are still available today in many sizes and budgets. I do feel that these are a great resource for anyone starting out.
Many of us in the industry started out with one of these kits. The only problem with these at times is that you may find that a few or many of the items in the kit might not be something that you will use much. I still have many of the tools from my very first leather craft kit in my program within the shop today. But unfortunately, there are a number of tools that were in the box that I never found a use for.
I decided to put together what I believe is a solid core list of leather craft tools for anyone wanting to get into leather work.
Our hope is that with this blog post and the accompanying video, you will have a better handle on the tools that I believe are essential and why. This information will help to make a better determination on what tools that you may or may not need based on the leather craft projects you plan on creating.
I have tried to supply a source link for as many tools as I can in this list to maybe help you find these or something similar. Some of these tools may include our Amazon Affiliate links if that is a good place to find them. Many of these tools you can purchase from your favorite leather craft supply business of choice. Where you get the tools isn’t near as important as “Does the tool do its job and work for you?“… that’s the most important part.
I hope you find this video and list of leather craft tools helpful in your leather working goals. Let’s get started.
Below is our list of Essential Leather Craft Tools that anyone doing leather work should have in their tool box.
I have attempted to break this list up based on different leather working tasks. There are also links within this list for some suggestions as to where to find them.
Leather Sheers – Maker’s Leather Supply and other leather supply companies will sell a version of these
Measuring and Marking Tools
C.S. Osbourne Spike Awl – Weaver Leather Supply sells some of these as well as Amazon. I can’t seem to find the exact one I have in that size but there are other sizes that will work.
Tape Measure – small size… 12′ or 16′ – any hardware store will have these
Square – Any hardware store will have this
Straight Edge – Maker’s Leather Supplymakes the one I have in the video… but any straight edge will work
Wing Dividers – Springfield has the 8″ pair in the video… Maker’s Leather Supply has a couple versions as well as a cheaper version that I have as well that are good
Pencils – I really like the Ticonderoga brand of pencils and you can find them many places but here is where I get them on Amazon.
Punching Holes
Drive Punches size #2, #4, #8, #10 – Maker’s Leather Supply (these are a higher end CS Osbourne punch) and Springfield Leather have many different sizes and styles of drive punches. I have also used the super cheap ones from Harbor Freight in the past… you have to sharpen and buff them off, but they will work if that’s all you can get ahold of. This video, “Hole Punches You Need for Leather Work,” we talk about hole punch options.
Actual size of holes these make: #2 – 1/8″, #4 – 5/32″, #8 – 1/4″, #10 – 5/16″
Leather Edge Preparation and Slicking
Rub Stick – Leather Supply companies sell variations of these, but they are also really easy to make your own from scrap wood in any shape that you need and then sand to a smooth finish.
Slicking Rag – Any heavy canvas or denim cut to size will work for this. Canvas can be purchased at fabric stores like Hobby Lobby.
Can/Container for water as well is a dauber or sponge – I prefer a small tomato sauce can but any little container will work.
Stitch Groover – for the cheaper craftool version visit Tandy Leather – for the higher end wing divider style visit Jeremiah Watt Tools
Overstitch Wheel – looks like they don’t made one like mine anymore… Tandy Leather sells one with multiple wheels for different stitch lengths
Stitching Awl – for the CS Osbourne haft, Springfield Leather has them as well as blades, this blade is my best guess as to a decent one, but you may get a few different ones and see what you like. There are many options for blades depending on your goals. Barry King has the bigger haft as well as his own blades.
Maul or Mallet – preferably larger and weighted, I prefer a 24 oz maul for setting rivets and punching holes, but as heavy as 4lbs is helpful with heavy end punching and large bag slots… Springfield Leather, Barry King and Maker’s Leather Supply have them as well as many other companies.
Rubber mat – any type of dense rubber will work for this.
Cutting Board – wood or plastic… you can these at Walmart and other places… Hobby lobby also has self healing cutting mats
Small Metal Anvil – scrap steel, aluminum, railroad iron, or a mini anvil
Rivet Setter – for copper rivets… Maker’s Leather Supply (they carry two types) and other supply companies have these available
Hoof Nippers or Side Cutters – for cutting excess off copper rivets… an old set from a farrier work well but hardware stores carry good side cutters as well.
A Few Extras
Side Cutters
Needle Nose Pliers
Cigarette Lighter
All three of these items can be purchased at Walmart or any hardware store.
