How to Make a Leather Buckhorn Bag

Posted by Don Gonzales

How to Make a Leather Buckhorn Bag (Full Project Build)

This is a full project build of our Buckhorn Bag—a rugged leather briefcase-style bag designed for real use.

In this video, we walk through the entire process from cutting patterns to final assembly, including gussets, lining, closures, and strap build.

This is not a beginner project—but it’s one of the best builds you can take on if you’re ready to level up your leatherwork.

What This Bag Is (And Why It Matters)

The Buckhorn Bag is based on a traditional pony express / messenger style, modified with:

  • Firmer leather for structure
  • Dual compartments for storage
  • A box loop closure with antler accent
  • Reinforced panels and tooling accents

It’s built to carry real weight—laptops, binders, everyday gear—and still hold its shape.

Key Lessons From This Build

1. Cut big pieces first (always)
Start with your largest panels and work your way down.

That ensures:

  • Better yield from your leather
  • Cleaner layout
  • Less chance of running out mid-project

2. Don’t trust gusset measurements—fit them
Gussets are one of the hardest parts of any bag.

Instead of cutting to a fixed length:

  • Cut long
  • Fit to the panel
  • Mark and trim after

This guarantees a clean, accurate fit every time.

3. Material choice changes everything
This particular bag uses a firmer waterproof veg-tan chap leather, which gives it:

  • More structure
  • Better durability
  • A more “briefcase” feel

Softer leather = easier assembly
Firmer leather = better long-term performance

*It is not mandatory that you use the bag leather I am using in this project… it was just my choice.

4. Build in stages (don’t rush assembly)
This project works because it’s done in phases:

  • Cut & prep
  • Tooling
  • Lining / lamination
  • Edge work
  • Assembly

Trying to rush this into one flow is where mistakes happen.

5. Hardware isn’t always the answer
This bag uses a box loop closure with antler instead of buckles or magnets.

Why it works:

  • Simple
  • Durable
  • No failure points

You can swap this for:

  • Leather tab closure
  • Buckle system
  • Magnetic + safety latch

Pattern Pack Details

We offer a large-format printed pattern pack for this build.

It includes:

  • Full cut patterns
  • Strap layouts
  • Measurements and material suggestions
  • 5 tooling patterns for accent pieces

Who This Project Is For

This build is ideal if you’ve already done:

  • Belts
  • Sheaths
  • Small bags

And you’re ready to:

  • Work larger panels
  • Manage gussets
  • Combine multiple skill sets into one project

This is a bridge project into bigger work like saddles or advanced gear.

If you’re serious about leveling up your leathercraft, this is the kind of project that will push your skills forward.

How to Make a Leather Rope Bag

Posted by Don Gonzales

How to Make a Leather Rope Bag (Full Project Build)

Rope bags are one of those projects that look complicated—but once you break them down, they’re actually pretty straightforward. They’re just bigger, and they require you to think through your steps a little more.

In this video, we walk through building a fully tooled leather rope bag from start to finish, including gussets, zippers, straps, and final assembly.

This project also ties directly to our rope bag pattern pack, which includes the cut patterns, strap layout, and tooling design so you can follow along step-by-step.

A Few Key Takeaways from This Build

1. Fit your gussets—don’t trust measurements
One of the biggest mistakes you can make on a bag like this is cutting your gussets to a set measurement and assuming they’ll fit. Different leather, stretch, and tooling all affect final size.

Always cut them a little oversized and fit them to your panel.

2. Material choice matters on gussets
Chap leather works really well here because it has the flexibility you need to make those turns without fighting the material.

At the same time, you don’t want something too stretchy or too oily that won’t glue well—both of those will make install a lot harder.

3. Keep everything centered and square
This project gets big fast, and small alignment issues turn into big problems.

  • Mark your centers
  • Start from the middle
  • Work your way around evenly

That keeps your zippers straight and your panels lined up.

4. Don’t rush your edge work
Even on a big project like this, the details matter.

Getting your edges prepped, trimmed clean, and finished properly is what separates a clean build from something that feels rushed.

5. This is a great “next step” project
This isn’t a beginner project—but it’s not overly complicated either.

If you’ve built smaller items like belts, sheaths, or bags, this is a great way to:

  • Work on larger layouts
  • Practice fitting components
  • Build something that’s useful

A Note on Design & Build

These rope bags can be built a lot of different ways.

  • Single or double compartment
  • Fully tooled or roughout
  • Different gusset styles

In this video, we use a simplified gusset system that’s easier to install and works well if you have a full-length side of leather.

Leather Edge Slicking and Preparing Your Canvas

Posted by Don Gonzales

How to Prep Canvas for Better Leather Edges

When it comes to leather edge slicking, most folks focus on the leather, the sanding, or the edge solution they’re using—but not many think about the canvas itself.

In this video, I show a simple tip for prepping a new piece of canvas so it works better right from the start.

Most of us are using canvas, water, and a little glycerin soap to slick edges. Over time, that canvas starts to break in—it gets loaded with soap and develops a smoother, almost glassy feel. And once it gets to that point, it works really well.

Instead of waiting on that to happen naturally, you can go ahead and preload your canvas with saddle soap. It’s a quick step, but it helps get that rag “seasoned” so it starts working more like an older piece right away.

In the video, I walk through how I do that and then show the full process—water, glycerin bar, and working the edge until you get that smooth, finished look.

One thing to remember:
Good edges don’t start at the slicking stage. They start with good sanding and prep. The smoother your edge is before you ever touch canvas, the better your final result is going to be.

My Everyday Swivel Knives for Leather Floral Carving

Posted by Don Gonzales

When it comes to leather floral carving, your swivel knife is the heart of the operation. It’s the tool that defines the flow, depth, and feel of your work. Not matter the leather floral carving session you are doing, the swivel knife is the first and last tool that we use to create the pattern.

In this video, “My Everyday Swivel Knives for Leather Floral Carving,” I walk through the knives I keep on my bench every single day—what I like about each one and how I use them for different styles of carving.

This isn’t about brand names or fancy setups—it’s about what works. I cover blade shapes, comfort, and balance, and how small differences in the handle or barrel can make a big difference in control and fatigue during long carving sessions.

If you’ve been wondering what makes one swivel knife better than another or just want to see how another craftsman sets up their tools, this video will give you some solid insight before you buy your next knife or modify the one you have.

Remember that it’s not how expensive the knife is that makes it a good knife… It’s more the quality of the blade and its shape and function for the task you are trying to accomplish.

How to Make a Leather Ranger Belt | Leathercraft Project

Posted by Don Gonzales

If you’ve been making leather belts, you may have been asked to make a Ranger Style Belt. In this video, How to Make a Leather Ranger Belt, I walk through the full process—from cutting the leather and preparing the edges to stitching, finishing, and adding hardware.

We also cover the “measuring” for a ranger belt. This is a little different than how we do it for a standard belt. Since there is not “fold” for the buckle this changes the sizing… there are also exterior billets that we use and those have to be balanced when the person is wearing the belt.

This belt isn’t just functional—it’s a great way to practice precision, clean stitching, and working with heavier leather. I also share tips that make the build smoother and the finished product look professional.

Whether you’re new to leathercraft or have some experience, this project will teach techniques you can use in lots of other builds, from straps to bags.

If you want to follow along, grab your materials and watch the full step-by-step in the video.

Make a Leather Cowboy Boot Bag | Leathercraft Project

Posted by Don Gonzales

If you’re looking for a solid leather project that’s as useful as it is good-looking, a Leather Cowboy Boot Bag is a great one to tackle. In this video, Make a Leather Cowboy Boot Bag, I walk through the full build step by step—from cutting and layout to assembly and finishing.

A boot bag isn’t just a cool piece to make; it’s a practical one. Whether you’re hauling your boots to a show, rodeo, or just keeping them clean in storage, this project gives you something durable and unique that’ll last for years.

You’ll see how I handle all the leather pieces, line everything up clean, and make sure the handles and seams are built correctly. I also go over a few small tips that make the difference between a good build and a great one—things like edge prep, panel layout, and clean stitching.

If you’d like to make one yourself, we’ve got a pattern pack available in our online store that includes all the cut patterns as well as a collection of leather floral carving patterns. It’s designed to save you time on the layout and give you a professional-looking result, even if you’re not running a big shop setup.

This is one of those projects that’s just plain satisfying to build—and once you finish it, you’ll have something that’s not only functional but looks like it came straight out of a custom shop.

Leather End Punches and Bag Punches

Posted by Don Gonzales

If you’ve ever struggled to get clean, consistent ends on your straps or bag handles, you’re not alone. In leathercraft, the small details make a big difference—and the right leather end punch can save a ton of time and frustration.

In this quick shop tip video, Leather Craft Tool Tip: End Punches and Bag Punches, I go over how these tools work, when to use them, and a few things to watch for when picking one for your shop.

What Are Leather End Punches and Bag Punches?

End Punches are designed to round off or shape the ends of leather straps and pieces. The end punch gives you a clean, uniform curve on strap ends—perfect for belts, billets, or tack work.

The Bag Punch, or Oblong Punch, is designed to create a slot with rounded ends in a variety of sizes. This is used for buckle tongues on straps or anywhere you might need a slot.

Why They Matter

Using an end punch or bag punch instead of cutting by hand helps keep everything consistent and professional. No uneven corners, no guessing where your curve should start—just clean, repeatable cuts every time.

If you’re producing multiple pieces or want your work to look crisp and balanced, these punches are worth having in your toolbox.

A Few Tips from the Bench

  • Keep your punches sharp—a dull one will leave ragged edges.
  • Always punch on a firm but forgiving surface (like HDPE or heavy rubber).
  • If you need to, mark your center line first so every punch is aligned.

Final Thoughts

Leather end punches and bag punches aren’t flashy tools, but they’ll quietly level up your work. Once you use one, you’ll wonder why you ever tried to freehand strap ends.

Which Leather Glue Is Stickiest? | Real Shop Test Results

Posted by Don Gonzales

When it comes to leatherwork, the right leather glue can make all the difference. Whether you’re building saddles, wallets, or belts, a strong bond keeps your project clean and lasting. But with so many leather glues out there, which one actually sticks best?

In my video, Which Leather Glue is Stickiest?, I put a few popular leather glues head-to-head in a real shop test to see which one sticks the best.

The Glues We Tested

For this round, I tested a handful of the most common leather adhesives used by pros and hobbyists alike. Each was applied to the same leather, allowed to dry, and then peeled apart to see how well it bonded.

This wasn’t a lab test—it was real-world use, just like we do in the shop every day.

What We Found

Some glues tack up quick but don’t hold as well under pressure. Others take longer to dry but create a stronger, more flexible bond. In leathercraft, that balance between open time, tack, and final hold matters more than the label on the bottle.

One stood out as the strongest bond in the group… and it was a true surprise to us in both type and application.

My Recommendation

You don’t need the most expensive glue on the shelf—you need one that fits your workflow and leather type. For everyday projects, I like a glue that’s:

  • Easy to spread
  • Quick to tack up
  • Holds tight even when flexed or sewn

I share my personal favorites and show the test results in the full video so you can decide which glue might work best in your own shop.

Final Thoughts

Leather glue is one of those small details that separates a good project from a great one. Take the time to find the adhesive that matches your projects and your process—it’ll save you time and frustration in the long run.

Are We Overthinking Thread Size and Stitch Length in LeatherCraft?

Posted by Don Gonzales

One of the questions I get asked most in the shop is: “What thread size should I use? How long should my stitches be?” And honestly, I think we sometimes overcomplicate thread size and stitch length in leathercraft.

In my video, Are We Overthinking Thread and Stitch Size?, I break down my approach to choosing thread size and stitch length, and why a lot of the “rules” out there aren’t set in stone.

Thread Size Doesn’t Have to Be Intimidating

Leather thread comes in a lot of sizes—69, 92, 138, 207 etc.—and it’s easy to get caught up in the numbers. The truth? Choose thread that works for the thickness of your leather and the project.

  • Thicker leather? Go a little heavier with your thread.
  • Lightweight leather? You don’t need a super thick, industrial thread.
  • Consistency matters more than the number—make sure your stitches are even and strong.

Stitch Length: Function Over Fancy

Stitch spacing is another place people overthink. Wider stitches don’t automatically look bad, and tiny stitches don’t automatically make a piece better. Think about strength, flexibility, and appearance:

  • For bags and straps that take stress, slightly tighter stitches help hold everything together.
  • For decorative work, spacing can be a little looser—just keep it even.

My Opinion

I like to keep it simple: pick a thread that suits the leather and the project, and focus on making each stitch even and consistent. You’ll be surprised how much better your projects look and feel without stressing over the “perfect” numbers.

Final Thoughts

Thread size and stitch length in leather craft is important, but don’t let them paralyze you. Leathercraft is as much about technique and attention to detail as it is about following rules.