One of the questions I get asked most in the shop is: “What thread size should I use? How long should my stitches be?” And honestly, I think we sometimes overcomplicate thread size and stitch length in leather craft.

In my video, Are We Overthinking Thread and Stitch Size?, I break down my approach to choosing thread size and stitch length, and why a lot of the “rules” out there aren’t set in stone.

Thread Size Doesn’t Have to Be Intimidating

Leather thread comes in a lot of sizes—69, 92, 138, 207 etc.—and it’s easy to get caught up in the numbers. The truth? Choose thread that works for the thickness of your leather and the project.

• Thicker leather? Go a little heavier with your thread.
• Lightweight leather? You don’t need a super thick, industrial thread.
• Consistency matters more than the number—make sure your stitches are even and strong.

Stitch Length: Function Over Fancy

Stitch spacing is another place people overthink. Wider stitches don’t automatically look bad, and tiny stitches don’t automatically make a piece better. Think about strength, flexibility, and appearance:

• For bags and straps that take stress, slightly tighter stitches help hold everything together.
• For decorative work, spacing can be a little looser—just keep it even.

My Opinion

I like to keep it simple: pick a thread that suits the leather and the project, and focus on making each stitch even and consistent. You’ll be surprised how much better your projects look and feel without stressing over the “perfect” numbers.

Final Thoughts

Thread size and stitch length in leather craft is important, but don’t let them paralyze you. Leathercraft is as much about technique and attention to detail as it is about following rules.